Pearl
2007 - present
Pearls became a part of my jewelry vocabulary when my father gave me his mother’s, my Indian grandmother’s, purse. Interspersed with the humble objects - bobby pins, eyeglasses, dentures – the entirety of her jewelry collection, most of it 22k yellow gold. I began cataloging the contents of her purse and constructing an image of my grandmother from the objects that she had left behind. I don’t know how long my grandmother wore dentures for, but I was drawn to the false pearlescent teeth and a pair of gold bangles studded with pearls. Both were artifacts in their own right. A linguistic tie already in existence between them.
Pearls are symbolically rich both in the story of their formation and their luster. What could offer more opportunity for poetry than an irritant, upsetting the internal workings of the oyster, until mother-of-pearl is secreted around it, building up the pearl in successive layers of nacre?
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Cast kelp hodfast and keishi pearl set in 22k
Coin pearls with flowers
Pearl mass, 2021
Pair of round pearl earrings with gold backing and iridescent surface.
Tahitian pearl "acorn"
Water droplet pearl necklace in 18k
Tahitian pearl water droplet pendant
Encrusted hoops, steel + seed pearls
Coin pearls, Sea of Cortez mabe pearls, variscite
18k gold water droplet nests
Tahitian pearl nest earrings
Pearls are accreted. The process is one of host defense, and the result is prized for its beauty. What if the fruits of our own complex immune system in fighting off parasites or other interlopers were gemstones? Most pearls are cultured, and the irritants are implanted into freshwater mussels or saltwater oysters; they are slightly less magical, but the animal’s work remains the same as it was when pearls were rare discoveries.
When I began pulling pearls into my jewelry it was by means of a primitive casting process where molten metal is poured into water. This is often the first step to alloying metal and how goldsmiths create grains or shot of a specific color and quality. The size and shape of the metal pieces correlates to the temperature of the water, the distance of the molten metal from the surface, the movement of the water, and a little bit of magic. In some European cultures, metal casting, usually with lead, is a form of divination. The shapes that result from this meeting of molten metal and cold water, a way of foretelling the new year. There’s even a word for this, molybdomancy, from the Greek word for lead and the suffix that points to divination. There is a brief moment in casting when the goldsmith witnesses the physical transformation of material, from solid to liquid and back to solid again –the metal glows red, mercurial, and then dark red, dull, grey, the light goes out as it cools, and the animus, if there was one there, disappears.
Gold water droplet pearl
Small water droplet pearl earrings
Classic pearl studs
Large waterdroplet pearl
Mabe pearls